THE MAKE-UP ARTIST BLOG

BEHIND THE SCENES - MALES DO WEAR MAKE-UP.

2010-02-11T06:35:00.000-08:00

I get asked all the time if male models wear make-up...

I guess it's a legitimate question for people who don't work in the industry....
...and the answer is yes, they do, indeed.
Generally for male models we take care of the skin - so we cover blemishes, dark circles, take away the shiness, by using a foundation or a tinted moisturiser or just concealer, or even just powder. Sometimes the look implies the use of eyeliner or eyeshadow, or even crazy aqua colours, it can vary depending on the type of jobs and what the client wants.
I'm going to publish backstage pictures from a photo shoot I did last autumn, where Fabien was wearing face and eye make up.

and pictures of the photoshoot:

TRUCCO

2010-02-09T14:52:00.000-08:00

We never stop learning...
For years I believed that no matter what a lipgloss is a lipgloss i.e. very different from a lipstick, and because of it's texture and it's nature it's bound to come off and doesn't last very long.
So I never believed in super long lasting formulas etc etc..until I tried the TRUCCO's one.
Dear make up lovers that TRUCCO lipgloss is amazing!. I used it on a shoot on location where the model where standing on the top of a hill and I couldn't reach her too often...each time I had a chance I was running to her to retouch her lips..to find out that I didn't need to, the gloss was still there, immaculate, on his deepest cherry colour. And there's a bonus: it smells delicious!
Now...the bad news is that I don't know where I can find this brand in Italy. . TRUCCO is the make up line of SEBASTIAN HAIR CARE. I've managed to get that gloss a while ago from a collegue in the UK..but I've heard that sadly the brand has been disontinued.
I will definitely investigate to find out if it's true, in the meantime I'll give you a couple of links wher you can purchase them:
http://www.ballbeauty.com/trucco_divinyls_lip_gloss.htm
http://www.haircareusa.com/sabastian_trucco_index.htm
and last but not least the good old ebay
http://health-beauty.shop.ebay.com/Sebastian-Trucco-/159852/i.html

Enjoy!!!!
xxx

VERSUS FOR A.WINTOUR AND SUZY MENKES

2010-01-25T11:29:00.000-08:00

The last day of two amazing weeks of fashion was at the Versace Theatre, where we prepared the models for 2 private super exclusive presentations: one for A. Wintour and later in the evening for Suzy Menkez.

It was very excting to meet Kristopher Kane and his siter Tammy who revamped the Versus line with a new fresh and young collection.

Here the picture of Donatella and Kristopher with the girls.

......and the article that Suzy Menkes wrote for the NY Times:

"By SUZY MENKES

Published: September 27, 2009

MILAN — “It is emotional for me,” said Donatella Versace as she viewed the plinths displaying scarlet dresses snapped with multi-colored safety pins and inserts of metal mesh — all created in tandem with the British designer Christopher Kane.

For Ms. Versace, the reincarnation of her personal Versus line, revealed Sunday, was a sweet memory of the early 1990s when her brother, Gianni, encouraged her creativity.

And the fact that Mr. Kane works with his sister, Tammy, was another piquant link between past and present.

“He’s a volcano of ideas,” Ms. Versace said. “He knows how to dress a woman’s body and he looks at young people and the young world, and that’s the future.”

Mr. Kane, 27, recalled how he was mesmerized as a pre-teen by the Versus boutique in his native Glasgow and how he went through the “labyrinth” of archives to find fresh inspiration for this collection.

The Versus collaboration seemed a perfect fit — literally in the cute, full-skirted dresses and figuratively in the match with Gianni Versace’s heritage. Using cut-out Neoprene lace to decorate finely pleated skirts and hanging his dresses on form-fitting bustiers, the Kane/Versus presentation looked right.

As for those strategic Versace safety pins that held together Elizabeth Hurley’s dress — and launched her career — Mr. Kane turned them into multi-colored embellishment for dresses and shoes. His own addition was cut-out sleeves hanging by straps. Yet the collection was never come-on or super sexy — rather a sleek and chic amalgam of Versus vintage and new. "

AQUILANO RIMONDI S/S 2010

2010-01-10T04:08:00.000-08:00

For the Aquilano Rimondi report I'll start straight away from the pictures:

images from dazeddigital.com

I loved every single bit about this show! from the sparkling pieces on the clothes, the colours, hair, make up, models, team, energy, absolutely everything.

Peter Phillips, key Make up Artist for Aquilano Rimondi created a look that was sexy, modern, rockchick-esque.

I'm not going to spend much time talking about the base, we used Vitalumiere fluid by Chanel, for more details and advice you can check the GianFranco Ferre' page of my blog.

The eyes were the focus :to start with we applied a liquid texture eyeshadow which has a powdery finish once is dry. It mind sound weird at first, but I promise that it leaves a gorgeous effect. You get an intense colour result with just one layer with the benefit that it won't crease, like most of liquid and cream based shadows do.

You can find find more info and a video on how to apply it here, the name of the product is Ombre d'Eau (shade: Delta).

Like on the video we applied the product on the eyelid and blended the excess up on the crease (with a flat eyeshadow brush).

Afterward with a soft pony tail brush we added, again on the crease of the eyes, a loose sparkling, bronzy colour powder to give more definition.

Black khol on the rim of the eyes, Ombre d'Eua again on the bottom of the lid, and thick mascara for the ultimate rockchick look.

The same loose powder that we used on the eyes was once again utilized on the high part of the cheekbones, continuing along the temples (see the first pic above)

The eyebrows were filled in just when needed, and on the lips a touch of natural colour.

I think it looked cool and sexy, it's easy to recreate and can be suitable for everybody for a nite out look at the disco + party + concert and more..

GIANFRANCO FERRE' AND JIL SANDER S/S 2010

2010-01-06T14:31:00.000-08:00

My day started quite early in the morning with the call time for Gianfranco Ferre' show, chief MUA Peter Phillips.
As usual I bump into familiar faces, apart from the MUA, I recognize all the hairdressers part of Luigi Murenu's team..chit chat chit chat chit chat!
Then everybody arrives and it's demo time.
The look was very simple but at the end, with the hair look completed and the clothes on, the whole image became very strong.

Being Peter the artistic director for Chanel make up, lots of make up items on the tables was labelled double c.

The Chanel base is slightly more covering compared to what I normally use..but easy to blend and also luminous, making the skin looking dewy and fresh. For a more transparent effect you can mix it with a moistorizing lotion.
If you're stuck with the application technique, check out this video on the Chanel website that can be of help

Powder on top for the ultimate matt look, (except on the cheekbones), groomed eyebrows and a lovely warm natural brownish lipstick.
On the eyes just a touch of beige eyeliner on the rim of the eyes.
As anticipated we left the cheekbones without powder and that was because we applied only at the very end (on the line) a touch of transparent lipgloss, which will look gorgeous under the lights.

here the images, from elle.com

As soon as we finished GFF we jumped on the bus to go the next location: the Jil Sander show.
The make up look was very similar to the previous show, very minimal with no colour on the lips, just natural. The hair style was different here, so the general look was less polished, more girl next door type.
So we started straight away and finish way before the runaway time...It's nice for a change working without time pressure!

images from style.com

MILAN FASHION WEEK S/S 2010 - VDP

2010-01-04T11:49:00.000-08:00

September has definitely been an exciting month, not only I did 5 shows in London, I was also booked to assist amazing artists for the Milan fashion week.
So it started with the presentation for VDP (Via delle Perle) working with italian MUA Miriam Langelotti, known for her "natural look". Miriam likes to use very light foundations to make the skin looking natural and glowy.
These days the way of doing make-up has changed compared to the 90's, where the foundation was applied quite thick to give strong coverage. Not only you couldn't see blemishes anymore, the general effect was porcelain skin-like. It was also very matt, shine was a big no-no.
Nowdays, especially for fashion, the trend is to see the skin coming through, freckles are allowed, the less product you put, the better. The skin looks younger and fresher, there is no need to cover it comnpletely, you can hide only what you don't want to be seen.
A touch of glow/shine on the cheekbones is healthy and chic (mind you only a touch, if the skin is oily naturally it's best to use a specific foundation for only skins) for the best non-make up effect.

Here the video taken on the day.

VDP VIDEO FOR TV MODA PRESENTED BY JO SQUILLO

and some images taken from styleandfashion.blogosfere.it

LFW DAY 5 - ROKSANDA LLINCIC S/S 2010

2010-01-03T07:53:00.000-08:00

The Make up look for Roksanda Llincic show was one of my favourite: warm colours and soft blending was the formula.
Lucia Pica the head MUA used a selection of 4 different eyeshadow on the tones of terracotta, beige, browns and goldy yellows, blended in softly for a velvet-like effect. The secret for achiving this softness is to keep blending with a big soft eyeshadow brush or a pony tail brush. It's only by blending that you get rid of those harsh lines that make the make up looking heavy and dragqueeny.
Warm bronzing powder under the cheekbones and on the temples.
Concealer on the eyebrows: this way you don't "erase" the eybrows completely but you make them looking less obvious.
No colour on the lips and lots of powder to create a perfect matt finish.

Images from elle.com

PAUL SMITH S/S 2010- LFW DAY 4

2010-01-01T15:44:00.000-08:00

The Paul Smith show was full of colours and fun!
The clothes had an ethnic influence, splashed with pastel colours, jungle-esque mood.

The hair look consisted in a very tight chignon with a "madeofplaits- flower shape-crown" at the top.

The make up look was simple yet effective.
Petros Petrohilos was the chief MUA; with his transparent base made the girls skin looking fresh and natural. A touch of NARS Multiple stick in St Barts under the cheek bones and on the socket of the eyes and....FULL ON COLOUR on the lips. Matt orange, purple, blue and green were the colours. No lipstick but lip and eye liners instead, for a strong impact.
Since we used pencils we applied lots of vaseline befere hand, to avoid the lips to look dry and cracky. To achieve a very intense colour we applied several layers, this way you make the look strong, being the lips the only feature. A washed effect wouldn't have been the same. It's details like this that make the difference when you design a make up look.

pictures from dazeddigital.com

Everything went smooth...apart from a model having a crisis followed by big time tears..right after I finished doing her make-up....this is the crazy fashion world for you!!

LFW S/S 2010 DAY 3 - JULIEN MACDONALD

2009-12-26T09:53:00.000-08:00

I was excited at the idea of being part of the team for the Julien Macdonald show, first of all because he's one of the most established british desgner, I like his collections and and third...Charlotte Tillbury was the key MUA..I like her style, I get inspired..
I'm gonna show the pictures straight away:

pictures from elle.com

What I like about this look is the fact that it's fairly natural yet sexy.

It's not about colours on the eyes or on the lips, it's about playing with the shimmers, highlighting and shading and making the skin loooking glowy and healthy.

To start with we used MyFace base, a lightweight foundation part of Charlotte's new make-up range Myface Cosmetics.

We then used the blusher in Medium Dark under the cheekbones and a touch on the apple of the cheeks for a sunkissed effect.

On the eyes: with a cream texture colour in warmish brown we defined the socket of the eyes and the bottom of teh eyelid, gently, with a soft stroke, well blended, no harsh lines.
Then with a loose white shimmery powder we filled in the eyelids. With the same powder we dotted the inside corner of the eyes, applied along the bridge on the nose, the bow of the lips, little touch on lips too and finally on the cheekbones.
The only strong (ish) part of the make up consisted on filling in the eyebrows making them quite thick, always soft and natural though, Brooke Shields' style.

watch the video (from elle.com)

As you can see the shimmer has created an amazing effect under the lighting, the girls were catwalking in a beautiful place reminding us of an italian piazza, looking modern, sexy and gorgeous.

LONDON FASHION WEEK S/S 2010 DAY 2 - OSMAN YOUSEFADA

2009-12-26T07:27:00.000-08:00

It's the second day of LFW and it was meant to be a day off...when at the last minute I 'm asked to assist Lisa Eldridge for the Osman Yousefada show!! great, couldn't ask for more. I've never worked with Lisa before but i heard amazing things about her.
And all I've heard was true...not only she's an amzing artist but sh'e s also a kind, patient and beautiful!
In the backstage area was real crazy! It was the first year at the Somerset House, the place was beautiful...packed with fashionistas, photographers and press...unfortunately they gave us the wrong call time..well the actual call time was right but they let us in with an hour delay...which meant less time to do everything...
Lisa kept working very calm and focused, giving us a good vibe and positive energy.
In the end we did all the girls, they looked amazing and the show was a success!
The make-up look had a late 80's early 90's reference, which matched with a long sleek pony tail would just give you the impression of having a deja vu...of Linda and Naomi working the catwalk!

Image from: cltreanor.blogspot.com

HOW WE ACHIEVED THE LOOK

As mentioned the look was 80's/90's so quite full on.

The base had a matte finish, no shimmer or shine. The coverage was normal, not see through or light.

Watching Lisa doing the eyes was a pleasure..she literally did it in 2 minutes...I've been doing this job for quite a while but I've never seen anybody so fast and precise all in once!

We used black eyeshadow with black khol for the inside of the eyes and a touch of irridescent blue/ lilac eyeshadow to apply at the end, on top of the eyelid. The shape was a little elongated, sharp, cat-eye like, with full colour. Eyeshadow on the bottom of the yelid too, for a smokey feel.

The eyebrow were filled in, following the natural shape.

No blusher on the cheeks, just contouring under the cheekbones.

On the lips we used a non coloured lip base to create a "deleted" effect.

Images from elle.com

LONDON FASHION WEEK S/S 2010- SASS AND BIDE

2009-10-18T06:05:00.000-07:00

London is my favourite town; it has been “home” for several years, so going back always fills me with happiness. Even better if the reason for visiting is London Fashion Week!

My first show was Sass and Bide, assisting chief MUA Petros Petrohilos, using REVLON make-up.

Once arrived I’m very glad to notice familiar faces, colleagues who I haven’t seen for ages….
Yuko Fredriksson in particular…we met at a fashion show years before assisting Petros… where we did lots of body make up….
Ella Bradley is another great MUA who I met on a charity show for TRAID..
That time I ended up doing her make up, due to a very last minute shortage of models....funny!

Once everybody‘s arrived it’s time for the demo.
The look was very natural with focus on the eyes, a subtle reference to the 60’s, extremely subtle.

-Working with different MUA is as interesting as you can learn various techniques and other ways of doing make up. This season has been particularly interesting for me observing the way of doing the base, at the end of it I had the whole vision, I absorbed what I’ve learned and I can now customise it to my style. That’s why it’s great working for events like fashion week, you have the opportunity to work with amazing artists -

We started with a light, almost transparent base; where you would cover the little blemishes but leave the skin coming through, think of a tinted moisturiser-like cover.
Thin layer of powder just on the T zone.
On the eyes we used a goldy brown, slightly shimmery stick on the socket and a pale highlighter on the eyelid, both very soft. The colour on the crease applied with the brush, started from the side of the nose to give the eyes definition, and the highlighter on the lids to add luminosity.
Inside the rim of the eyes we applied Revlon Luxurious Colour Khol Eyeliner in white, only from half way through till the end. The same eyeliner was used to enhance the inside corner of the eyes, by drawing a horizontal V along the eye shape itself and then blending it with a brush.
The mascara was the gorgeous Doubletwist, the latest from Revlon, applied endlessly. Layers and layers of mascara to make the lashes spidery and thick.
Under the cheekbones a hint of the same brown colour that we used on the eyes for a little definition and on the lips Nude Attitude a very nice beigy-pink soft textured lipstick by Revlon.

A BLAST FROM THE PAST PART 3

2009-09-09T01:04:00.000-07:00

More pictures from my archive, just to keep you warm before the new season's shows.
These ones are from the Atelier 1 show AW08-09, I was the key MUA

The collection was beautiful, earthy colours like olive green, brown, and grey were predominant with a touch of shiny silver from time to time, sparkling like a lake in the middle of a forest.
At the make up test the designer was looking for something bright, like a splash of colour. Originally I thought about some vivid colours on the eyes but then we decided that it didn't matter where it was placed, it had to be there somewhere, like a colorful fashion accessory.

A clean delicate and beautiful base was a must, to enhance the colours
I was going to put afterward. I have used Perfect Canvas, a very nice smooth liquid base with a hint of luminosity, Hide It concealer and Invisible Blotting Powder, all by Daniel Sandler Cosmetics

On the eye sockets and at the bottom of the eyelids a soft stroke of Taupe (blusher) by MAC . Taupe again under the cheeckbones for a bit of definition.
Eyebrows filled in only the necessary, and fake lashes (medium, not thick ones).

On the lips just a touch of concealer applied with fingertips (tons of lipbalm required to prevent them from looking dry).

Then we applied the bright colours:for the eyes (green and blue) we used a selection of eyeshadows from different brands, while for cheeks and lips (pink, orange, yellow and lilac) we used water based colours, the ones you use for facepainting ( GRIMAS are my favorite.

To add some "catching the light" effect we applied at the very end some vaseline on eyelids and cheeckbones, et voila'! the look is done.

It was a great experience, being in charge was a big responsability but also very rewarding. I couldn't have done it without the help of my marvellous "affectionados" from the Daniel Sandler team: Kathrine O'Neill, Heather White and Trevor Killean(http://www.danielsandler.com/team)

BLAST FROM THE PAST PART 2

2009-08-31T11:08:00.000-07:00

Working with Daniel Sandler has thought me a lot.
Not only he's a very talented make up artist, Daniel is also a beautiful genuine person and a very special friend.

To follow some of the shows I did with Daniel, first assistant on his team.

GEORGINA HARLEY SMITH AW08

GEORGINA HARLEY SMITH SS08

A BLAST FROM THE PAST!

2009-08-09T11:46:00.000-07:00

While tidying up my laptop I found pictures that brought me back to nice old memories and though about uploading them and share them, they can be useful for ideas or reference.

This is one of the first “proper” show that I did with Daniel Sandler, in London, for Pucci.
I remember being very nervous…but everything went smooth, Daniel was soo lovely.

These ones are from the Belle and Bunty show during London Fashion Week S/S06, with Daniel Sandler, sponsored by Bourjois cosmetics and Shavata

September 2006 - Milan- my first show in my own country. I was first assistant in Daniel Sandler's team for the Jenny Pachkam show.

MISSONI MENS SHOW S/S 2010

2009-07-23T05:49:00.000-07:00

The Missoni collection for next year's spring summer is chic and comfortable.
The Missoni man is a traveller, sexy and effortless.
Miriam Lancellotti (head make up for the show)decided to recreate the tanned look by using Mineralize Skin finish powder by Mac. In that way we achieved a "tanned-from-travelling" look i.e. even but not too embellished, a bit rough if anything. The result was great, the boyz looked healthy without showing they were wearing make up.

bits and bobs

2009-07-15T09:08:00.000-07:00

HISTORY OF MAKE UP: DATES TO REMEMBER

While flicking through an old copy of British Vogue I found a very interesting article about the basic tools for our beauty routine: who and when they were invented:

Face Cream: Guerlain’s Secret de Bonne Femme was launched in 1904.
Bronzing Powder: Guerlain introduces Terracotta in the 1900’s
Mascara: in 1914 Max Factor introduces the first form of mascara for films – a wax to be heated and applied to the lashes. By 1916 this mascara is available to the public.
Foundation: Max Factor develops flexible greasepaint for films in 1914
Hair Dye: Eugene Schueller calls his synthetic hair colour Aureole in 1907 and sets up a company called L’Oreal.
Nail Polish: Cutex commercialises nail polish in 1917.
The Perm: in 1906 Charles Nestle invents his permanent-wave machine
False Lashes: Max Factor creates a set out of human hair in 1919, but doesn’t sell false eyelashes commercially until 1959.
Eyelash curlers: Kurlash is invented in 1923.
Perfumed face powder: Caron introduces Peau Fine in 1920
Hand Held hairdryer: invented in 1969. Before this hood hairdryers were the only option available.
Hair Straighteners: Babybliss was the first company to introduce straightening irons for pro use in 1980, but did not sell them to the public until 1987.

WHAT WE USED TO DO…

Egg White: was painted on skin nightly for it’s tightening effect during the 20’s.
Liquid Stockings: during World War II a tan-coloured cream was painted over legs and a browline drawn up the backs to mimic stockings.
Boot Polish: was used in World War II instead of mascara due to make-up shortages.
Milk of Magnesia: was used to lighten skin to the ivory tone that was in vogue in 1916.
Flame Soot: was mixed with baby oil to create smoky eyes in the 20’s and 30’s before eyeshadow was invented.
A rabbit’s foot: was used as a rouge applicator in the early 20th century.
Hair Ironing: in the 60’s women draped their hair over an ironing board and covered it with a paper bag or towel before ironing it straight.
Rose Petal Blush: rose petals were steeped in red wine for weeks and used as substitute for rouge during World war II.

Amazing eh?!
Full articles from British Vogue December 2006.

CHANEL CRUISE SHOW IN VENICE

2009-05-29T02:58:00.000-07:00

It's friday morning..I'm lost in the courtyard of the Universita' Politecnico di Milano trying to find a studio room that nobody seems to know...when my agent calls...
Next week I'm going to Venice to do the Chanel cruise show!
how exciting!

This is how it went..

14th of May Central Station of Milan 8am:
bunch of people with big luggage looking at the time screen waiting for the platform number to come out, destination: Venice.
On the train we were chatting and catching up, we’re from the same agency but haven’t seen each other from fashion week, so there’s a lot to say.
Arrived in Venice they pick us up and take us to the hotel…This time though it’s not a taxi but a boat, I’m already excited! Even though I’ve been in Venice few times already I never get tired or bored of it, same magical feeling, same sensation of being in a past era.
The hotel is amazing, and its’ all booked for Chanel staff and guests especially for the show. This is called class.
Apparently Coco Chanel spent a holiday at Lido di Venezia, the whole collection is dedicated to it. Even the backstage passes had a beautiful vintage drawing on it (I’m using mine as a pendant..)

Just about enough time for the check-in and in half an hour it's the call time, on the 3rd floor.
While we wait Tatiana Patziz is passing by, my eyes and mouth are about to get wide open but I keep it cool, like I see top models from the 90’s every day…
We go to the big balcony and the view is WOW, I will never forget the colour of the see that day, the breeze, the nervousness mixed with excitement..
The make up room is massive. Everything is tidy, perfectly organised. Big lightened mirrors, white sheets on the table. Every table has a selection (huge one) of Chanel make up on it and the name of the artist who will sit there. (This is like it should be, you go at some shows and you don’t even have a centimetre of space to work..)
Then Peter Philip arrives, and send us to lunch! It’s going to be a long day and we need to be fed.
The buffet is downstairs, by the sea… paradiselike. I’m not particularly hungry, I’m always like that before an important job, must be stress, but I know that later on I will regret it so I force myself.
Back to work we start following Peter’s demo, here the description of the make up look:
-The inspiration comes from the 20's, the slapper look, very heavy eyes and pale skin.
For the base we used PRO LUMIERE liquid foundation for a light dewy skin. We didn’t use foundation or concealer on the eye lids.
On the eyes EYE GLOSS from LUMINOUS CREAM QUADRA EYESHADOW a beautiful palette of creamy colours: red, black, gold and pearl.
On each table there was a list with the names of the models, and near each name there was the instruction for which coluor use between the black and red cream shadows.
The colour was smudged all along the eyelid and blended up to the brow bone on a round shape.
Heavy khol black liner on the rim of the eyes, also smudged outside the lashline which goes to be blended with the cream colour applied underneath as well.
Lashes were curled but not too much to prevent them from hitting the back of the eye area and ruin the make up (we all know cream eyeshadow smudges very easily) coated with WATERPROOF IRRESISTABLE MASCARA in black.
Brows filled in but very lightly, no specific shape.
No contour, only blusher FRESQUE 58 on the apples of the cheeks.
Lip balm on the lips, the lipstick will be applied later on, on the line.
All the make up we used was CHANEL only -

The room quickly fills in with models, I see Myf who I met at Pucci last season and she sees me and come straight away to my table. Myf is very easy going, I like that, I like working with models like her, especially at the shows.

Everything goes very smooth, no “delirio” situations, in a couple of hours they get make up, nails and hair done and they look FAB!.

Downstairs, on the line is actually a DELIRIO. All the dressers screaming names, hundred of people passing by, photographers.., flashes, the usual..then the music starts and the girls catwalk on the beach. It was marvellous. I can’t describe it any longer, this was the job that makes you think that all the sacrifices are worth it, I feel very lucky to have had such an opportunity.

This is the video:

And some pictures:

MADRID HAIR SHOW FOR REDKEN

2009-05-25T02:58:00.000-07:00

TAKTIK hair has become one of my regular clients. Working for them is great cos' you get to travel, staying in beautiful hotels but most important their shows are always different and creative and I get the chance to experiment too.
We had as usual cut and colour on stage, 2 models for the "FORME" (shapes) session, and 4 models for the fantasy theme "THE MONGOLIANS".
We worked under pressure, we only had 5 hours to do everyhting..in a smallish backstage where the light wasn't ideal..but we made it, as usual it was a big success.

Here some pictures:

THE MONGOLIANS

MAKE UP TRIAL FOR "THE MONGOLIANS" LOOK

INSPIRATION

THE "FORME"

FACE CHART FOR THE "FORME" MAKE UP

MAKE UP TRIAL

THE HOTEL

PS!! I HAD 5 GIRLS HELPING ME OUT, THEY WERE GREAT. IF YOU RE IN SPAIN AND NEED MAKE UP ARTISTS I HIGHLY RECOMMEND THEM: LAURA GOMEZ ALONSO, TATIANA SOLER, VIRGINIA MARTIN, LAURA GONZALEZ ORTIZ, CARLA BERCIAL.
(for their details send me an e-mail).

more pictures to come!!

TEST SHOOT BACKSTAGE

2009-05-24T13:06:00.000-07:00

A test shoot is an opportunity for the team of photographer, stylist, model, make up and hair to produce pictures to put on their portfolios, websites, etc..
It's is generally not paid (in London and Milan from my experience, I've heard that in NY is different..) but a great chance to work with new people, to experiment and being creative.
In London you have this very good website called WHOISTESTING.COM where you only have to put an example of your work and people can contact you to collaborate.

Here some pictures from the backstage of a test shoot I did recently:

STARZ

DETAILS

LOVELY MODEL POSING FOR BACKSTAGE SHOT

SHOOTING

THE FINAL PICTURES

PHOTOGRAPHY BY ALICE ROSATI
STYLING BY IRENE DE SANTIS
MAKE UP AND HAIR BY CHIARA GUIZZETTI

PRINGLE and MILA SCHON AW 09/10

2009-04-16T07:04:00.000-07:00

Like we've seen at Pucci, the look for Pringle of Scotland was also "naturel"
David Jones, (Pat McGrath's main assistant) did the demo:
beautiful dewy skin thanks to "face and body" by Mac, a little sculpting under the cheekbones and a touch of vaseline on the lips. Only afterward David decided to add blusher and brown mascara, but it was still very very minimal.

It was again a very relaxed atmosphere..no dramas...only.. to add a lil' glama Miss Pixie Geldof turned up for le maquillage!

The Mila Schon show was a different story...Proper "delirio" on the backstage, like what you always imagined..from the screaming divas to the hours of delay..yelling here and there...the last minute models turning up with crazy big hair and fucsia eyes needing to be ready in 10 minutes for a a nude make up look and a chignon.
This is it, this is fashion week for you! ...(I might be more of a relaxed and no dramas show type..if I can chose..)
Anyways..the make up team was leaded by Cristine Dupuys, sponsored by Shu Uemura make up.
The look was "chic meets interesting":
a nice and transparent base with a dust of powder here and there. Eyes defined on the socket and bottom lashes line with a beigy brown eyeshadow. Soft mascara.
The eyebrows made the difference: with a brow brush deeped in thick concealer we pushed them upward, to give them the effect of disappearing. We draw the "new ones" with a light brown pencil: thin and straight with a minimal curving at the end.
Sculpted cheekbones, natural pink lips et voila' the look is done!

PUCCI AW 09/10

2009-03-15T06:07:00.000-07:00

Fashion week has kicked in, lots of good energy around Milano.
My call time was 9:15 meeting the international MAC team for the PUCCI show, key make up artist LISA BUTLER, yippi! (I always wanted working with her).
The backstage was crowded with hairdressers and maquilleurs, brushes, hairdryers, hair extensions, crazy! It was very nice to find familiar faces: people I met during the London days, people met recently in Milan, people coming from America, Australia, Malasia met in the past fashion seasons, it was a great feeling!
Then Lisa arrives on her super high stilettos and it's time to play.
Lisa's assistants start distributing samples of make up that we re going to use, then it's demo time and we're all following every single details.
The make-up up look was meant to be very plain, since the clothes were quite full on they wanted the girls to look simple, almost boyish, yet fresh.
We applied first Strobe cream by Mac wich has a nice louminous, slightly shimmery finish and on top a thick-ish foundation. The trick was to apply the foundation gradually, layer on top of layer, tapping with the brush. In this way you get an even base, medium coverage without looking too heavy or mask-like.To set the foundation we used MAC mineral powder, great to seal the base. Very interesting way of doing the eyebrows: we kept the colour light or brown but not dark. We filled them in with a brush but instead of being a typical eyebrow brush we used a regular eyeshadow brush to achieve a soft stroke with little definition.
On the eyes only Strobe, brown mascara and a touch of brown eyeliner on the rim of the eyes. Strobe on the lips too.

MILAN FASHION WEEK READY TO WEAR AW 09/10

2009-03-12T05:56:00.000-07:00

The September shows seem finished yesterday..I can still feel the vibe..and it's already happening again..it's February, it's Milan fashion week.
The worries concerning the crisis affecting the fashion industry generated terrible forecasts and a frightened mood between us "the backstagers" which reminded me of the panic on a child 's face when the parents break the news that the trip to the funfair is cancelled...
But fear not..the show must go on...the telephone starts ringing and everybody is running around Milan, suitecasing all over the place.
I've started my fashion journey with Versace, not the actual show..."only" a presentation, strictly Private, for Mrs A.Wintour!!!
I met up before the call time for a cappuccino with lovely Kristen, who I got to know one and a half years ago, on exactly the same circumstance. We then go to one of the Versace's villas...and meet the rest of the hair and make-up team. The vibe was unusually relaxed, no drama, everybody was lovely! we even had time to take a long lunch break.
The look we created was very natural and clean: Mac face and body for the skin, for a very transparent effect. On the eyes brown eyeliner pencil slightly smudged in the corner and brown mascara.A touch of Taupe (blusher) by Mac on the socket. Taupe again under the cheecks to contour and a touch of 8 hour cream on the lips.
Everything went pretty smooth...the presentation was a success and we were going to be rebooked. fab!

BUSINESS CARDS

2009-02-24T12:07:00.000-08:00

Dear friends I want to share with you a precious tip, I'm going to give you the link of the best+cheap business cards maker ever.
There you go: MOO is "the" company
They're super fast, good quality cards, at a very cheap price.
Bring it on!

MILAN FASHION WEEK MEN AW 2009-10

2009-01-29T11:16:00.000-08:00

This Januray started out pretty well. One of the job (glamorous jobs actually) that I did was the men show for Belstaff in Milan. The make up was very minimal and simple(you know men don't really wear much of it, unless is some very creative project..) the real excitement consisted in being part of PAT MCGRATH team!!
Some pictures from the show to follow.

TRUCCO E PARRUCCO

2009-01-25T15:34:00.000-08:00

Everyday is a new adventure!
Life of a Make up Artist in Milan is quite full on: most of the clients expect you to do both hair and make-up..and during credit crunch times like this you can't really afford to say no..So bring your hairstyling skills back and rock!

Here some backstage images from a couple of shoots where I did both trucco e parrucco.

GARIGLIO

Sabina

Sandro

INTIMO (UNDERWEAR)